Hello! My name is Hoon Lee and I will show you how to properly transfer your new friends to your new home. Let’s get started!

Start out with acclimating your fish to the water by equalizing the water temperature in the bag. What we suggest is to float the unopened bag on top of the water for at least 15-30 minutes.

Fun fact, Koi can be sunburned in direct sunlight. Keep that in mind for current and future amenities for your little… Or big fishies.

If it’s a sunny day, we also recommend placing a thin towel or similar object on top to shade the bag while acclimating.

Before releasing into the pond, now’s the time to take stock of your new arrivals while they’re together in the bag. If you dump them straight out of the bag, they may zip to a hidden area because of the stress of shipping and adjusting to a new home.

Carefully open the bag and count your fish one by one while comparing it to your invoice. We have extra protocols in place to make sure you have the right order and correct amount of fish.

And you don’t need specialized tools seen here to count. A small bowl or cup will suffice. Keep the water transfer to a minimum and after an hour or so, your new friends will adjust to their new home. After you have acclimated the bag, counted and scooped the fish into the fresh water, you’re done!

Thank you so much for your patronage and we look forward to sending more friends to your home!

We are temporarily extending the available delivery dates that you can choose from when placing an order.

The standard ten delivery dates are being replaced with TWENTY available delivery dates – so you can schedule your delivery up to four weeks in advance!

This will allow you to plan your Koi, Butterfly Koi and Goldfish shipments around your local weather forecast and avoid shipping delays.

Order now, receive later, and keep adding on to your order in the interim!

Whether you are building a pond for the first time and deciding what to stock or you inherited one and have no idea what’s in it, the ability to identify the most common koi is useful. With more than twenty varieties, distinguishing between each can easily become overwhelming.

Popularity lists for koi vary since a large part of koi keeping involves owner preference. Still, certain varieties tend to be more common or popular than others. Our list is based on koi that repeatedly appear across several lists.

Kohaku

Kohaku are white-skinned koi, with large red markings (these can also be purple-red or orange-red, which is more difficult to develop and maintain, but well worth the effort for serious enthusiasts). Kohaku persist as one of the most fancied varieties among koi keepers.

Known for being striking and ornate, Kohaku set the industry standard for two types of patterns: continuous and step. 

A continuous pattern is one that forms a solid stripe from head to tail, free of breaks or separations. The depth of the color should be evenly concentrated and not lighter on one half or darker on the other. Interesting characteristics, such as wavy edges, are preferred on continuous head-to-tail patterns. 

Step patterns describe the number of color patches that appear on the koi. Each color patch is counted, beginning on the head or face. The white base color of the koi’s body is visible between the color patterns. The number of color patches should distribute evenly from head to fin. 

Asagi

One of the oldest ornamental varieties, Asagi display a blue netting pattern on its back (and occasionally a pale yellow or cream). Its gills and fins contain red or orange color, which will fill out the koi’s underside as it ages.

Asagi were selectively bred for a gene mutation that causes the reticulation patt

ern and bluish hue, but they otherwise are considered more reminiscent of wild carp than many other types of koi. Many enthusiasts insist on a red pattern that does not extend beyond the lateral demarcation in order to consider an Asagi high quality. 

Shusui

Shusui are the only other blue-bodied koi, but this variety is Doitsu. The term ‘Doitsu’ means the koi is scaleless apart from a single line extending down the dorsal line from head to tail. Shusui have a single row of large, dark blue scales that draw attention and are slightly reflective. As with most varieties, color symmetry is a must. Shusui markings are red or orange, often along the sides of the body and on the fins.

Shiro Utsuri

Shiro Utsuri are koi with a black base overlain by areas of white. A high-quality Shiro Utsuri will combine clean white patterns with a deep, lacquer-like black. A split head of both black and white is also an important requirement for top quality in this variety. 

Bekko

Bekko come in solid white, yellow, or red coloring with non-metallic
black markings in a pattern often mimicking that of a dairy cow. This combination is often referred to as a “stepping stone” pattern. 

To attain top-quality status, Bekko markings should be a solid jet black and not appear on the Bekko’s head. A Bekko’s fins may be either white or have sumi (black) stripes. This variety presents a stunning, sophisticated appearance. 

Taisho Sanshoku

Taisho was the Japanese emperor who reigned when Sanshoku koi were first bred. San means “three,” and shoku means “colors”–a reference to the red, white, and black coloration of this koi variety. You might also see Taisho Sanshoku identified as Taisho Sanke, which is just an abbreviation of its formal name.

Sanke were the first tri-color koi variety to be developed. They are white-bodied koi with large patterns of hi (red) and smaller sumi evenly distributed on the body. These koi are similar to the Kohaku, except for the addition of sumi markings. They should not have any black on the head, abdomen, or base of the pectoral fins.

Showa

Also tri-colored, Showa are black-bodied with red and white markings. Pronounced hi covers as much of the koi as the black skin does, with little white showing. However, modern breeders are increasingly allowing a larger area of white on this koi variety.  

Koromo

Koromo are meant to stand out from the crowd with their blue- or black-edged scales over a red pattern atop a white base. Koromo with distinct, blue crescents arranged in an orderly manner are highly valued and favored among hobbyists. 

It’s not unusual for the coloration of a koi to develop and change over its lifespan. The Koromo variety is especially susceptible to this change, as the depth of their blue increases as they age. A young Koromo with an appealing blue hue will often darken significantly later in life.

Goshiki

Goshiki are also known in some circuits as “peacock koi” or “five-colored koi,” flaunting white, red, black, dark blue, and light blue. Recently, Goshiki have been divided into two subtypes: Kindai Goshiki, which have a lighter base color, and Kuro Goshiki, which have a traditional dark base color.

The lighter Kindai Goshiki looks much like a Kohaku but with thin crescent-shaped dark blue reticulation appearing on the white skin. The darker Kuro Goshiki sometimes has reticulation on the red as well. The white area becomes almost completely dominated by h

eavy dark blue reticulation (appearing almost like black or dark purple). Water temperature can affect the intensity of the base color, which will darken in cold water and lighten as the water warms.

Tancho

Tancho is any koi with a solitary red patch on its head, although it is typically used to describe a Kohaku. It is named for the Japanese red-crowned crane, which also 

has a red spot on its head. The symmetry and placement of the tancho mark are the main factors in determining the quality of this koi.

Kumonryu

Kumonryu are Doitsu koi with patterns of gray or white combined with black. Kumonryu are chameleon-like in that they will completely change their pattern many times throughout their lives. They can go anywhere from solid white to solid black and any shade or combination in between. Some Kumonryu even sport a spectacular killer whale pattern. Upon close inspection, an all-black Kumonryu may have a bluish tint that distinguishes it from a Shiro Utsuri. 

Beni Kumonryu are a rarer form of Kumonryu with a solid-white body, black

 markings, and the presence of a third red color. Beni Kumonryu can change patterns many times throughout their lifespan. The red markings will remain relatively stable, but the black can change drastically. In the winter, Beni Kumonryu tend to have more black patterning and more red and white in the warmer months.

Ogon

Ogon are metallic koi that shine beautifully in a pond. These koi are especially attractive to beginners since their singular color is easy to maintain. The most common colors are platinum (metallic white) and yamabuki (metallic yellow). Ogon also have desirable personalities, as they are one of the more friendly varieties, especially during feeding. The most important physical characteristic of these koi is an unblemished head and body.

Matsuba

Matsuba are koi that combine a solid, metallic base with a uniform black net pattern, also sometimes referred to as a “pine cone” pattern. The base color of Matsuba can vary, but the

pattern remains consistent throughout this variety. It is created by scales with dark centers and edges that display the base or body color particular to the koi.

The Matsuba variety includes the subvarieties of Aka Matsuba (red body with black pattern), Gin Matsuba (white body with black pattern), Ki Matsuba (yellow body with black pattern), and Orenji Matsuba (orange body with black pattern).

Ideally, Matsuba should have a clean, blemish-free head that is the same color and tone as the body.  

Kikokuryu

Kikokuryu are a variety of koi that are always metallic and always Doitsu. Their lustrous sheen can occur in metallic black and white, blue and white, and silver and white.

A quality Kikokuryu maintains its shine throughout the body, especially on the head

. The colors should look glossy, and the black should appear inky (although, in different phases of development, it may be more subdued). Two variations of Kikokuryu coloring exist: Beni Kikokuryu and Kin Kikokuryu. 

A Beni Kikokuryu has an orange or red pattern on top of the standard black and white. To steal the show, it must boast bright colors with crisply defined edges, as well as balance in its patterning.

A Kin Kikokuryu sports a yellow or yellow-orange pattern atop the standard colors. This koi also will be judged favorably for bright colors with defined, crisp edges, and an overall balance in its patterning.

Chagoi

Chagoi are known for being one of the most friendly and intelligent breeds,
with a large stocky size that’s usually a solid brown. Variations can include pale-olive green, copper, and bronze. More recently, some Chagoi have even developed darker, subdued orange shades. The breed is considered a sign of good luck among koi keepers.

Are you ready to add a new fish to your pond? Shop our full selection of koi and pond goldfish today.

Although koi are known for their friendly demeanors and calm temperaments, like most fish, they are omnivores and will eat fish that are significantly smaller than them. If spawning occurs but fish don’t emerge, it is likely because of opportunistic feeding. 

The probability of any fry surviving in a pond with adult fish is small. This is not an issue for hobbyists not looking to grow their numbers. However, if you want to raise koi fry, you must take steps to ensure their safety.  

Koi Reproduction 

A koi’s spawning period is the aquatic equivalent of land-based animals’ courtship and mating rituals. Fish typically spawn in late spring or early summer when water temperatures are between 65℉ and 75℉. Koi are oviparous, which means that fertilization and embryo development occurs mostly outside the body of the female koi.

A female emits pheromones that signal her readiness to breed. Once a male picks up the scent, he will nudge, prod, and chase her around the pond to encourage her to release eggs. This will continue until the eggs are laid and fertilized, which can sometimes span a few hours. 

Though she might eat them later, it’s the female’s instinct to hide her eggs. Pond plants’ leaves, stems, and root systems provide locations to attach egg clusters. Submerged plants such as fanwort and waterweed are ideal because their dense leaves offer shelter. 

Floating plants will sometimes suffice if they have extensive root systems. Or, you can purchase spawning mops made of nylon or synthetic material that the eggs will stick to. 

Why Do Koi Eat Their Babies? 

Though koi are intelligent (they can identify their caregivers, hand feed, and even learn tricks), they don’t recognize their offspring. Thus, in most cases, the consumption of their own is a case of mistaken identity. Eggs resemble pieces of pellets that comprise most of a koi’s diet. While grazing upon plants, a koi that notices eggs will automatically consume them. 

Similarly, at just a centimeter, newly-hatched koi resemble bugs, tadpoles, or other tiny fish that koi would naturally consume. Once fry grow to about 6 inches, adult koi will find them familiar and stop pursuing them as food. 

Koi eat their young out of ignorance, not aggression. This is a characteristic of most fish species and is not unique to koi. In other words, this behavior is normal. 

How to Prevent Koi from Eating their Babies 

Only one reliable method exists for guaranteeing that koi do not make a meal out of their offspring: separating the babies from the adults as soon as possible. Even waiting the approximately four days it takes fry to hatch might be too long. 

However, a female koi can lay 100,000 eggs for every kilogram of her weight in a single breeding season. So as long as you keep an eye on your pond, you should be able to find plenty of eggs. 

One strong indicator that spawning has occurred is foam accumulation in the pond. This frothy texture at the water’s surface comes from the milt that males release. It typically has an unpleasant, fishy odor. The water may cloud over the course of a day or two. Once it begins to clear, it is time to start gathering eggs.

Recognizing Eggs 

Before transferring eggs to a nursery, it is essential to know whether they are fertilized and are viable. Out of 100,000 eggs laid, only about 20,000 (without the presence of predators) would successfully hatch. Not all koi eggs will be fertilized, even under perfect conditions. During the first few hours after a successful spawning session, koi eggs will remain extremely small, measuring just a few millimeters in diameter. After 24 hours, you can begin to differentiate between fertilized and unfertilized eggs. 

Viable eggs will have a translucent appearance with a slightly brownish tinge. If you inspect them closely, you might see tiny dots inside, which can look like seeds and signal the presence of an embryo. Sometimes you can even see movement and activity occurring within. Unfertilized koi eggs will have a milky white color and, after a few days, will begin to look fuzzy as fungus sets upon them. You should remove these immediately, as the fungus can trigger a systemic infection that can kill the rest of the eggs.

Other Methods 

If you do not want to separate fry but want to maximize the chance that a few will survive to adulthood, there are ways to set up your pond to give the babies their best chance of survival.

Adjust your feeding schedule

If koi are continuously satiated, they are less likely to scan for food between meals. Overfeeding koi can have dangerous consequences, but you can consider breaking meal portions into small sizes and feeding throughout the day. You also can add healthy treats to the diet and provide those intermittently. 

Add hideouts 

Pond plants provide shelter and a food source for fry, so more plants in your pond means a better chance of survival. However, don’t go overboard; too many plants can harm your pond. Plants require oxygen and nutrients to survive, so they will eventually compete with your koi for resources. Plants should not comprise more than 60% of your pond. 

Rock arrangements also can provide a safe place for young koi, primarily if small grooves and gaps exist that adults cannot reach. 

Preventing Koi from Spawning 

If you are uncomfortable with any loss of life, then you will need to prevent your koi from spawning in the first place. The most obvious way to do this is to cultivate an all-male or all-female pond. If your pond is already established, you can determine each koi’s sex and separate the two during spawning season. 

An alternative is to trick your fish into thinking that spawning season never arrives. This is done by keeping the water temperature low throughout spring. You may also need to keep the pond shaded to simulate reduced daylight hours.

Looking to add new fish to you pond? Shop our full selection of koi and pond goldfish today.

Determining whether a koi is male or female involves some detective work. Even an expert with trained eyes can miss some of the physical distinctions. As koi lack external sex organs, we must rely on the subtle differences in external features. Fortunately, as they age, koi provide several clues that combine to offer a clearer picture. 

Age 

Age is important when sexing koi, as many differentiating characteristics do not develop until maturity. Koi are typically considered mature when they reach 12 inches in length. Depending on the variety, this may take up to three years. At this point, koi are biologically able to breed. However, koi in healthy pond environments typically won’t mate until age 4 or 5, so it can take quite a while for spawning-related characteristics to manifest.

Size 

An average koi grows between 24 and 36 inches. Genetics and environment are the main determinants of size, but females are typically larger than males. This size difference is thought to stem from Japanese breeding practices, where a single large female was placed with several smaller males to minimize injuries. Generations of breeding in this fashion have led to male koi generally being smaller than females.

Body Shape 

Mature female koi have larger midsections and appear rounder (often described as “blimp shaped”), while male koi appear more streamlined and torpedo-shaped. This results from the expansion of females’ ovaries to accommodate a growing number and size of eggs. Without the ability to produce eggs, males will not bulge in their midsections (unless they are overfed). Female koi also develop broader shoulders. 

When assessing body shape, view your koi from above. You might need to remove the koi from the pond and use a showing bowl to examine its contour. You can also try feeling the underside of the koi. Females will have a soft abdomen between their bones, while males’ abdominal bones are fused. 

Color

In general, male koi develop color faster and exhibit slightly brighter palettes than female koi. Similar to other aquatic species, this trait is linked to mating. You can see male koi become more colorful as water temperatures rise. These colors subdue in the weeks after spawning. Due to their larger size, females tend to develop more intricate patterns. Color alone should never be used as a determinant of sex as multiple factors affect it, including genetics, diet, environment, and health. 

Pectoral Fins 

Pectoral fins are on both sides of a koi’s body, just below the head. A male koi’s pectoral fins will appear pointed and solid in color. Females will display rounder fins that are more transparent. The fins’ first ray may also be more substantial in the males. If you choose to handle the fish, you can assess the oyabone, which is the bone closest to the head that runs from the pectoral to the tail fins. Males have thicker oyabones than females. 

Tubercles 

During spawning, male koi will grow small white spots called tubercles on their heads and fins. To the touch, they feel rough and gritty, like sandpaper. You won’t see these on females, which will continue to feel smooth. Tubercles will subside after the season, so only use this criterion during active spawning. 

Vent 

The vent, located on the underside of the koi, is a key physical trait that can distinguish male koi from females. The vent of a mature female will protrude slightly and feel soft, with a pinkish slit running crosswise. Males have firmer vents that are either flat or concave. 

Breeding Behavior 

One hallmark of the male and female distinction in koi is spawning behavior. Fish typically spawn in late spring or early summer when water temperatures are between 65-75°F. A male will target an egg-bearing female and chase her around the pond to encourage her to release her eggs. This behavior can go on for several hours but will cease once the female accomplishes this. 

In some cases, distinguishing the chaser from the chasee can be difficult because it occurs at high speeds. Males will also harass each other to assert dominance and the right to breed with the females.

Feeding Habits 

Contrary to behavior during spawning, females are the primary aggressors at mealtime. They tend to stay near the surface and eat continuously during feeding, while males nibble and swim between bites, darting to the surface and arrowing back down. However, the variety of the koi also can affect feeding behavior. 

Inspecting Koi

If you need to handle your koi to inspect certain characteristics, it is important to do so safely. Corral the koi and guide it into a viewing bowl using a pan net (a shallow net resembling a frying pan) with slow and deliberate movements. Stay as quiet and calm as possible when approaching. Never chase the koi around your pond.

Before holding koi, wash your hands with dechlorinated water. This will help protect the slime coat. Remove any jewelry that could scratch or injure the fish. When lifting the koi out of the bowl, grasp it tightly enough that it cannot escape your hands in mid-air and become seriously injured. If the koi is jumpy, rotating it around slowly in the bowl or tucking its nose towards your armpit can help to settle it. 

Implications of Koi Gender 

The ideal ratio of males to females will differ depending on your pond’s purpose. Breeders may want a higher male-to-female ratio, with larger females to reduce the chances of injury during aggressive spawning.

If your pond is primarily for personal enjoyment, a ratio of two males to one female will help prevent stress and aggression. Or you can opt to cultivate an all-male or all-female pond. The desirable ratio may also change depending on the size of your pond. Females tend to be larger, so they will place more demands on the pond’s water volume.

Finally, the price can be a determining factor as sexually mature females are almost always more expensive than males. 

Whether male or female, Next Day Koi offers an impressive variety of fish for sale. Shop our full selection of koi and goldfish.

Most people can appreciate a good rainstorm from time to time. While rain can benefit your pond by providing a zero-cost, soft water supply free of chemicals like chlorine or chloramine, it can also potentially harm your pond. Rainwater quality varies depending on where you live, with heavily industrialized locations creating pollutants that spread through the air and mix with rain. These chemicals can include pesticides, heavy metals, and inorganic ions (like sulfate and nitrate), which can affect a pond negatively.

Rain and pH 

Rain is most likely to affect your pond’s pH. The pH scale measures the acidity-alkalinity spectrum, which ranges from 0 to 14. Anything lower than seven is considered acidic, and above seven is alkaline (basic). For healthy and happy koi, between 7.0 and 8.6 is the ideal pH reading.

Though it depends on air and atmospheric influences, most pond owners can expect their rain to be fairly acidic. The normal pH of rain is 5.0 to 5.5, significantly lower than the neutral level that koi ponds need. The pH can drop even lower if pollution from cars and factories contaminates it. Low pH produces acidosis in koi, which can be fatal if untreated. 

Precipitation with an abnormally low pH creates a condition known as acid rain. This occurs when your water’s pH parameter rapidly moves from a neutral balance to more acidic. This doesn’t mean that acid falls from the sky, but rain at this acidity level can introduce aluminum into the pond and cause a pH crash that kills fish and plants. Some regions in the country are more affected by acid rain than others, especially the Northeast.

After a significant rainfall is a good time to test your water parameters. If your pond’s pH starts to drop, you need to add buffers, which are anything that counters the increased acidity. Various chemical buffers are available on the market, or you can create your own using alternatives like baking soda or oyster shells. 

Rain and Temperature

High winds, sleet, snow, or even an atypically cold rain can significantly impact your pond’s temperature and pH. Abrupt changes in water temperature are dangerous for fish, potentially causing life-threatening risks to their digestive and immune systems. 

Koi’s internal systems slow down as water temperatures drop. When they decline gradually, koi will adjust by instinctively eating less. However, abrupt temperature drops can trap food in the digestive system.

When temperatures rise, pathogens in the water become more active and increase koi’s susceptibility to disease. Increasing temperature also elevates the fish’s oxygen demands at the same time that it lowers the life-sustaining oxygen levels in the water. 

The ideal pond depth depends on the temperature fluctuation where you live. Large, shallow ponds are the most at risk for changes in temperature during rain. Ponds in areas with minimal temperature fluctuation throughout the year need to be at least 3 feet deep, but regions with more significant seasonal effects will need to be much deeper–sometimes 8 feet or more. 

Rain and Runoff 

Leaves, fertilizer, and other surface runoff will negatively affect your pond by blocking out sunlight, altering its chemical composition, and ultimately creating a dangerous environment for its inhabitants.

If you are building a pond, the higher the ground, the better. The lowest point in your yard is the worst place to install a pond. When the pond sits in the lowest part of a yard, run-off is more likely to accumulate, negatively impacting water quality and potentially harming the fish. 

Refrain from using chemical fertilizers on your lawn to help ensure toxins don’t enter your pond. You may want to add a detoxifier to the pond and complete a partial water change if you believe fertilizer or pesticide has been washed into it.

A pond with sufficient drainage also will help prevent the accumulation of debris such as dirt, grass clippings, leaves, branches, and trash. 

Rain and Oxygen 

Your koi need well-oxygenated water of at least seven parts per million to stay healthy. Oxygen levels lower than three ppm will start to stress the fish and lead to behavior changes, sluggish growth, disease susceptibility, and eventually death.

The amount of oxygen in rainwater is typically around ten ppm, so it’s easy to assume that rain is not threatening your pond’s oxygen levels. However, the pollutants that rain can introduce to the pond, coupled with a temperature shift, can quickly negate its high oxygenation and lead to a net oxygen decrease. 

Therefore, it helps to make sure that oxygen levels stay at a healthy level in the event of significant rainfall. The first step is to remove debris from the pond immediately. Leaves and branches will sink to the bottom of the pond and add to the sludge layer, which lowers oxygen levels. 

Treat the pond water with beneficial bacteria after a storm to mitigate the spike in organic-matter growth. If you don’t already have one, install an aeration system to help circulate the water. This keeps temperature levels and oxygenation steady throughout the pond. 

Rain and Flooding 

Depending on your setup, heavy rainfall sometimes has the potential to wash fish out of your pond. Water from a significant storm also can accumulate under the pond liner, causing the pond to float. 

Consider installing a pond overflow pipe if you live in an area with heavy rainfall. An overflow pipe is a horizontal or vertical pipe at the pond’s edge that moves excess water to another part of the garden or a water storage tank. Cover the pipe entrance with mesh or a screen, so your fish and plants do not get sucked into the pipe. 

Alternatively, you could raise the pond’s rim several inches above the ground, protecting your fish in a flooding situation. You also can add a gravel area around the edge of your pond to help drain excess water or install a retaining wall at the lowest part of the pond. 

Are you ready to make your pond environment the best it can be? Shop our full selection of koi and pond goldfish today. 

Koi ponds naturally attract wildlife to your garden, which can provide a rich oasis for animals in addition to your fish. However, the welfare of your koi and goldfish must be your top priority, so it is important to know which species to welcome and which to deter.

The following are probable creatures you might encounter as they try to live rent free in spaces in or around your pond.

Birds

Some birds make wonderful additions to a pond environment, while others are the worst predators around. The key is to attract the birds you want while deterring the dangerous ones. Species such as herons, kingfishers, and cormorants are capable of killing your entire koi population in a single sitting.

You can make the area around the pond friendly for desired birds, like blackbirds and other songbirds. Plant trees and shrubs near the pond to provide nesting and shelter. Place seed feeders near the pond and add perches overlooking the water.

Netting is the ultimate defense against fish-eating birds. Small songbirds are able to drink through the netting but large birds cannot access the fish. It also is effective for catching leaves and other debris in the fall.

You can further deter predatory birds by adding decoys around the pond. Most predators are territorial, and the presence of a decoy will trick them into thinking the territory has already been claimed.

Additionally, provide pond structures, such as rock ledges, that offer safe hiding places for your koi.

Geese

Canada Geese are the most commonly encountered goose variety for pond owners. Though these waterfowl predominantly inhabit lakes and rivers, they won’t pass up a larger backyard koi pond if there’s food present.

One problem with this is that both your shallow and submerged pond plants are on their menu. Another is the excessive amounts of waste geese produce–up to two pounds each day, much of which is tossed into the water when they fly. The excess phosphorus and nitrogen adds more nutrients to pond water than most koi ponds can handle, especially when the geese have depleted your biological filtration.

Therefore, though geese can be pretty, they aren’t great additions to a koi pond unless you want to spend hours each day cleaning their mess and keeping them away from your plants. Getting rid of geese isn’t too hard–you just need to create loud noises to scare them off. The bigger issue is preventing their return, which you can do using liquid goose deterrent and decoys. Never feed the geese, as this will almost ensure that they stick around.

Ducks

Ducks are beautiful creatures to have in or around your pond, but they also will destroy every plant you own in record time. They will spare no variety–floating plants will get shredded, submerged plants uprooted, and marginal plants trampled.

While they aren’t a threat to your koi, like geese, they produce an enormity of waste. Most filtration systems are not up to the task of dealing with a group of ducks (they tend to travel in teams). They also will steal floating fish food from your koi.

The easiest way to ward off ducks is to install pond netting and set up decoys. Most importantly, you must resist the urge to feed them.

Dragonflies

Most people find dragonflies to be among the more attractive insect species, and your pond can  provide them with a place to lay their eggs. Dragonflies also feast on other less desirable insects like flies and mosquitoes.

Multiple species of dragonflies exist and some require a specific plant stem for egg laying. Some dragonflies prefer the leaves of water lilies while others prefer the stems of lotus flowers. Still others prefer laying their eggs on submerged wood. You will need to research what dragonfly species are native to your area and install the right vegetation to attract them.

If you don’t want dragonflies, there isn’t much you need to do. If you don’t set up your pond to help them survive, the koi will eat the larvae before they hatch.

Snakes

Water and garter snakes are the types that most people will encounter near their ponds, and they are completely harmless. These snakes also have the potential to assist in the health of your pond’s ecosystem, keeping populations of smaller critters under control.

Most snake species that are found near water won’t attempt to feed on koi or goldfish. However, some will occasionally eat koi eggs and fry, as well as small goldfish. Therefore, they can pose some risk if you own a breeding pond, but, otherwise, they add balance to your little slice of nature.

However, not all pond enthusiasts (or people in general) are fans of snakes. One of the most effective ways to keep them away is to remove any spots they might use for shelter or as a hiding place. Another is to add snake-repellant plants to your yard, such as lemon grass, marigold, wormwood, and garlic.

Frogs

Many koi owners enjoy the occasional frog in their pond. Frogs can effectively keep the pond insect free, with the ability to consume up to 10,000 bugs in one summer season. They also clean the pond by eating excess algae and organic materials.

Most frog species are compatible with koi, with the possible exception of bullfrogs. Bullfrogs will eat anything they can fit in their mouths, including fish eggs and baby koi and goldfish. However, like snakes, they only pose a problem during breeding season.

You can make your pond frog friendly by adding lush grasses in and around it. Provide areas with slow water flow, as well as plenty of shelter. On the other hand, if you want to keep frogs out of your pond, you can sprinkle coffee grounds around the perimeter or spray with a mixture of water and vinegar or peppermint oil.

Toads

Toads will most often invite themselves to your pond space in the spring, as they use the environment for mating. Their range is mostly eastern North America and eastern Canada. Toads will eat anything that can fit in their small mouths, so some pond enthusiasts welcome them as free pest control.

Typically, your koi will keep toad populations in check. However, in some cases toads can overpopulate and you might want to manually keep them out. You can catch the toads in a net or pond skimmer, relocate them, and prevent their return by installing fencing too narrow for them to squeeze through. Just make it deep enough that they cannot burrow beneath it.

Moles

Moles build their nests near water sources because this is where they find most of their food. Their homes consist of tunnels underground, which can be up to 20 feet deep.

Though these burrowing land mammals prefer to stay dry, they are relatively good swimmers. They will feast on everything edible in your pond (though they are much too small to harm your koi).

A common sign that moles are present is a sudden drop in the water level as they chew through the pond liner. Garlic extract, castor oil, and chili pepper flakes are some of the best repellents to use. However, you have to first locate their tunnel entrances. Form a half-moon shaped “barrier” of extract-drenched soil on the opposite side of the direction you want them to move.

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Though you might not enjoy the aesthetic, some algae in your pond are normal. Algae thrive off nitrates in koi waste and are an essential part of your pond’s ecosystem. These plants add oxygen through photosynthesis and make a healthy snack for koi.

However, increased waste, water temperatures, and sunlight can cause algae to overpopulate in the summer. An abundance of algae will consume more oxygen than it creates, which is a problem because your koi require more oxygenated pond water in the summer.

Fortunately, many methods exist to reduce pond algae. If your overgrowth is mild, natural solutions are safe and effective at removal and prevention. If the problem is moderate or severe, your pond might require mechanical or chemical treatments before you can employ preventative measures.

What Is Algae?

Planktonic (green water algae) and filamentous (string algae) are the two main types of algae that affect koi ponds. Sunlight exposure coupled with excess nutrients in the water causes planktonic algae. This condition is common in new ponds or ponds with inadequate filtration.    

Filamentous algae thrive when filtration is weak or beneficial bacteria are insufficient for the pond size. They grow from the bottom of the pond, break into pieces and float to the surface. Filamentous algae clog filters and water features and produce blooms that can double their weight in 24 hours, making them difficult to remove.

Removing Algae: Natural Methods

Natural methods of removing and preventing algae overgrowth are every pond owner’s first line of defense. These methods are safe for pond inhabitants, and many are already part of an effective pond maintenance routine.

Manual Removal

If your pond has large algae blooms, the best preliminary step is to scoop, rake, or vacuum the bulk of them before treating the rest. This can be a time-consuming process and is not a long-term solution (the algae will grow back). However, it can create a more manageable situation for you to work with as you address the underlying causes of the algae growth.

Barley

Barley straw is an ecologically friendly option that requires minimal effort–you just toss it in the pond. Barley works slowly but effectively clears small amounts of algae, and prevents regrowth. Barley converts to algae-killing hydrogen peroxide when it decomposes but steadies at safe levels for fish.

You might consider purchasing barley extract if you cannot wait a month or two for the decomposition process to yield results. Barley extract works faster but can be dangerous for your koi if not dosed precisely.

Pond Plants

Pond plants control algae by depriving it of the nutrients it needs. To effectively control algae, you must cover at least 60% of your pond’s surface with plants. This is perhaps the simplest long-term solution to keeping water clean and clear.

Floating plants like lilies and lotus reduce algae’s access to life-sustaining sunlight. Submerged plants such as hornwort release oxygen to help counter the algae’s effects.

Pond Algae Eaters

Koi are conservative algae-eaters, so one option is to add aquatic companions to the pond that consume it more voraciously.

The Chinese Hi Fin Banded Shark is actually not a shark but a species of fish, and it is a fantastic bottom feeder that will help consume the algae at its source.

The Japanese Trapdoor Snail is considered the best algae-eating snail for a koi pond. Though they are slow eaters, these snails will meticulously nibble at pond algae. Plus, they won’t harm your other live plants.

Otocinclus Catfish are a small catfish breed that many pond owners consider among the best algae eaters. These fish will consume all algae, from slimy brown to newly growing.

The Siamese Algae-Eater lives up to its name. These fish are great for warm climates and will work day and night to gobble as many algae as possible. They do well with koi and goldfish but cannot survive cold temperatures.

Avoid Overfeeding

You should feed koi the amount of food they can consume in about five minutes. Leftover food will drift to the bottom of the pond and rot, which is a catalyst for algae growth. It is also important to note that feeding requirements change seasonally, so the amount of food koi consume in five minutes will be less in the spring and fall than in the summer.

High-quality fish food available at suppliers like Blue Ridge Koi & Goldfish will help to alleviate this problem. Lower-end koi food often contains filler ingredients that the fish cannot process, leading to excess waste production that facilitates algae growth.

Structural Changes

Water runoff typically contains nutrients that algae can feed on to grow. One way to combat this is to build a rim around the edge of your pond to block it. If you are building a pond, placing it at a high point in your yard will help avoid this problem.

If you consistently have problems with algae in the summer, you might consider adding depth to your pond. A deeper pond stays cooler in the warm summer months, making it harder for algae to grow. Ponds with graduated bottoms tend to do best at preventing algae growth, with the ideal parameters being 40% deep, 30% intermediate, and 30% shallow.

Improve Water Quality

Weekly water changes introduce clean water to the pond and reduce excess nutrients. The general recommendation is to replace between 10% and 20% of the water each week, not including evaporated water. Do not change the water more than once a week as this can stress the fish and cause an imbalance in water parameters.

If your pond has a filtration system installed but algae are still growing, you may need to clean the filter inside the system more often. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to clean your filter at least once each month to prevent algae from forming.

Beneficial Bacteria

Biological augmentation can improve pond water quality by adding minerals, enzymes, and microbes. Stimulating these substances in the water will reduce nutrients such as phosphorus that boost algae growth.

Removing Algae: Mechanical and Chemical Treatments

Used in combination with natural solutions, mechanical equipment and chemical treatments can help rid your pond of algae overgrowth and keep it under control in the future.

UV Pond Clarifiers

Ultraviolet light keeps planktonic algae from spreading and destroys it as it grows (it will not work on filamentous, or string, algae). Once killed, the plant particles clump together and the filter removes them. UV clarifiers can attach to your pond pump or filter.

When selecting a UV clarifier, consider your pond and pump size. A pump that is too large won’t expose algae to UV radiation long enough to kill it. Replace the UV light bulbs yearly to maintain effectiveness. Additionally, overexposure to UV light can harm beneficial plants and bacteria in your pond. You will need to know your pond’s size and volume to determine the appropriate wattage.

Pond Dye

Color the water with a pond dye to reduce the sunlight it absorbs. There are several dyes, ordinarily blue, which stop sunlight from reaching the bottom and prevent the formation of algae. Pond dyes can also help keep your fish hidden from predators that are more active during summer.

Aerator

One of the leading causes of algae blooms is the lack of water movement. Purchase a fine bubble aerator and install it in the deepest section of your pond, which will help add oxygen to the water and keep it moving to produce a healthier environment in the pond and prevent algae growth.

Algaecides

Pond algaecides work by attacking the algae cells and destroying the cell wall. This effectively kills and destroys the algae, making such algaecides a highly effective remedy.

However, oxygen levels in the pond will become lower as the algae die off. An abrupt and further drop in your pond oxygen can be dangerous for your fish. Use algaecides as a last resort when you can’t clean your water and remove your algae any other way or the situation is complex enough that the benefits outweigh the risks.

Selecting the best algaecide for your pond will depend on the types of pond algae you are looking to treat. For fine planktonic algae that cause green water, Algae D-Solv or other liquid chemicals are a great option. If you’re fighting filamentous (string) algae, a granular form such as AlgaeOff is more effective since it makes better contact with the algae.

Are you ready to make your pond environment the best it can be? Shop our full selection of koi and pond goldfish today.

Inheriting a koi pond along with the purchase of a new home can be exciting but daunting, especially for a novice. If you are lucky, the previous homeowner provided detailed instructions on the pond and its care. However, that often is not the case.

It can be helpful to understand exactly what you’re undertaking with your new koi pond. The following are some things to consider when you are deciding whether to assume ownership of a koi pond.

Are You Ready for Koi?

You are probably more ready than you think. You don’t need to be an expert or a pro to enjoy the perks of koi ownership. The hardest part is designing and installing the pond with the correct elements, and that job has (hopefully) been done for you. After that, koi ponds do most of the work for themselves. In general, homeowners find that koi pond maintenance easily fits in with regular backyard maintenance.

As long as you provide clean water, shelter, and high-quality food, your new koi can take care of themselves pretty well. These hardy fish are able to thrive in most environments. The average koi grows between 20 and 25 inches long and lives between 25 to 45 years. More than 100 varieties of koi exist. If the previous owners did not identify the types in your pond, you can use an identification guide to explore what you are getting.

Get Familiar with Filtration

High-quality biological and mechanical filtration systems are vital components of maintaining the water quality your koi will need. Biological filtration occurs when beneficial bacteria break down ammonia and nitrite in the pond. Mechanical filtration captures small particles of waste and debris. The filter should be able to cycle all the water in your tank at least once an hour.

Identify Equipment

There’s a lot to explore when it comes to potential koi pond equipment, but these are some of the more essential elements that you will want to identify and inspect.

Pump

The pump is the heart of your pond’s recirculation system. When you find the pump, make sure it’s running and doesn’t appear clogged or littered with debris. If something doesn’t seem to be working right–or if the pump’s in a hard-to-access location–you might want to consider making some changes.

Liner

Every pond needs a liner to stop water from leaking. Rubber-lined ponds are better than rigid, plastic ones because they are more durable, easier to filter, and, ultimately, easier to care for.

Skimmer

Water skimmers save you lots of manual labor, as they remove about 90 percent of leaves, sticks, and other large debris that enters the pond. You should find them sitting along the edge of the pond, letting water flow in through an opening in the front.

Aerator

Aerators help to maintain appropriate levels of oxygen in the water, which koi need to survive. In the summer, they help stabilize the oxygen levels that naturally dissipate in heat. In the winter, they open a hole in pond ice, breaking the surface tension and removing carbon dioxide to keep fish safe.

Know Your Water Quality

Regular water quality checks are essential to ensuring you are housing healthy fish. Test water for pH levels, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, all of which can harm fish when out of balance. If your pond has not been regularly maintained during the home sale process, you will want to begin by checking the water daily. After ammonia and nitrite levels have reached zero and nitrate levels are within an acceptable range, you can reduce the frequency of checks. Depending on the pond, you will need to replace 10 to 20 percent of the pond’s water about once every week or two.

Take Stock of What You Have

The pond’s volume and the number of fish it holds are large determinants of what it needs. Your pond should hold at least 1,000 gallons to start, plus 200 gallons for each koi. An overcrowded pond can lead to aggressive behavior, poor water quality, and sick and unhappy fish.

Because koi are non-aggressive, they do well with a number of aquatic companions. It’s a good idea to know what else, if anything, resides in your pond along with the koi. Goldfish are a popular companion species and don’t require any additional specialized care.

Aquatic plants increase oxygen levels and contribute to the pond’s biological filtration. Additionally, plants create natural hiding spots to help koi remain safe from neighborhood predators. Ideally, your pond will contain a mixture of floating plants, shallow marsh plants and submerged plants.

Financial Considerations

Since each backyard pond is different, maintenance costs can vary significantly. The two main drivers of cost are the pond’s size and condition. Larger ponds will be more expensive to maintain, and ponds that haven’t been cleaned in a long time will cost more to revitalize.

You will incur some energy costs running your pumps and aerators and will periodically need to replace parts. Also, consider the regular cost of food and occasional medication treatments for your koi. Whether it’s an unexpected financial emergency or just shifting economic priorities over time, the price tag, though generally reasonable, can become burdensome if you don’t plan for it.

Feeding Your Koi

Choosing high-quality food made specifically for koi is important for their health and for helping them to reach their size and color potential. We recommend Blue Ridge Koi & Goldfish Food.

Because koi metabolisms shift based on temperature, adjusting the type of food you give your fish when the seasons change is essential. An all-season formula is appropriate when temperatures are above 65℉. From 50℉ to 65℉, you’ll need to switch to easily digestible food. Wheat germ-based formulas are the most popular choice, like Blue Ridge Cool Water Wheat Koi and Goldfish Food. Stop feedings completely when water temperatures drop below 50 degrees.

Water temperature also plays a role in determining the frequency of feedings. Koi can eat three to four times a day when temperatures are above 70 degrees. One to two times daily is appropriate for temperatures between 62℉ and 70℉, and once daily or every other day at temperatures between 50℉ and 62℉.

Rehome if Necessary

If you aren’t interested in keeping koi, you can ethically rehome them. An empty pond can still be an attractive backyard feature, and it is better to find the koi a good home than to not care for them properly. Several rescue organizations also exist around the country that can help.

Are you ready to add to your new pond? Shop our full selection of koi and pond goldfish today.

Whether you have an existing koi pond or an empty backyard water garden, you might wonder whether it would make a good home for the goldfish in your indoor aquarium. In most cases, ponds provide better habitats for goldfish than tanks.

Goldfish are natural friends of koi as they both are part of the carp family. Koi and goldfish share the exact water condition needs and adapt similarly to weather, making them perfect aquatic companions in an outdoor pond.

However, whether the fish in your aquarium can coexist with your koi depends on their size and other factors related to pond environment and maintenance.

Consider the Size of Your Goldfish

If adult koi already inhabit your pond, it’s essential to consider the size of your goldfish. Although goldfish can grow up to a foot, most kept in household aquariums only stretch a few inches. These fish need to grow to about 6 inches before it’s safe to place them in a pond with large koi. Although koi and goldfish can make great friends, both are cannibalistic species and will mistake their smaller brethren for a snack.

Goldfish that are too small will need time to grow in a larger tank or uninhabited pond with good water quality. Add protein to their diet to stimulate growth. Most fish foods formulated for growth include at least 50 percent protein. You can also buy gel foods that contain additional sources of protein, as well as growth-promoting vitamins and minerals.

Consider the Type of Goldfish

There are two classes of goldfish: pond goldfish and fancy goldfish. As the name implies, pond goldfish are well suited for pond life. While these fish are often packed into tanks at the local pet store or sold at fairs and carnivals, they require much more space than an aquarium can provide.

Fancy goldfish come in various shapes, colors, and fin types. They are smaller than pond goldfish but can grow to a suitable size for pond life if their environment is well-managed. They are less hardy than pond goldfish and don’t acclimate to the cold as well, so they are most appropriate for climates that don’t get freezing weather.

Consider the Pond Environment

First, you should ensure that your pond offers a suitable environment for goldfish. Like koi, goldfish produce a lot of waste. If you combine the two, you might need to increase the power of your filtration system. 

A goldfish pond should have a large surface area, have plenty of aeration, and vary in depth (offering some shallow areas accompanied by areas at least 3 feet deep). It is crucial to ensure that the water does not freeze all the way through during the winter, so depending on where you live, your pond might need to be deeper.

Overcrowding is one of the main problems that arise within koi and goldfish ponds, so you should also consider the pond’s volume and the number of fish already in it. Keeping your population manageable avoids many potential problems like excessive waste build-up, depletion of dissolved oxygen, and stress from crowded conditions leading to disease.

In general, you should allow no more than two mature koi or three mature goldfish per 200 gallons of water. So, for example, if you have eight koi in a 1,000-gallon pond, you shouldn’t add more than three goldfish.

Consider the Water Parameters

Chances are that the water parameters in your pond differ from those in your aquarium. Many goldfish owners with small tanks or fish bowls rarely test the water’s parameters. Before transferring goldfish into your pond, you need to ensure that your pond has ideal water parameters and that the conditions in your tank match those for at least several days before introducing the goldfish to their new home.

Koi and goldfish are hardier than many other fish regarding their pH tolerance, but it is still important to keep levels between roughly 7 and 8.6. It is also essential to hold pH levels as constant as possible. Rapid changes in pH can stress the fish and, in some cases, be fatal.

Water hardness is the measurement of minerals dissolved in the water. Hard water has high levels of dissolved minerals and is usually higher in pH. Soft water has low levels of dissolved minerals and is generally lower in pH. In soft water, pH levels can change rapidly, but pH levels in hard water tend to be more stable.

Ammonia levels in a pond should be as close to zero as possible; the same is true for your tank. If your test kit detects ammonia levels higher than 0.1mg/l, change the water and add a beneficial bacteria treatment to the tank. The higher the level, the greater the percentage of the water you should change, while being careful not to shock the fish.

Nitrite levels also should remain close to zero, and the ideal range for nitrate is 20-60 ppm.

Consider the Water Temperature

Goldfish can survive in a wide range of temperatures but cannot withstand rapid changes. The fish in your tank have likely adjusted to a higher temperature than they will experience in the pond. The first step is to help them acclimate by gradually cooling their water to the pond’s temperature.

To do this, turn off the aquarium lights and move the tank away from any windows. Then remove the tank hood and replace it with fine netting so the fish can’t jump out. Aim a fan at the tank to gently blow across the water’s surface and float ice packs in the water. But remember to go slowly–the water temperature should not drop more than 2 degrees every eight to 10 hours.

The best time to transfer goldfish from a tank to a pond is typically in the summer when the aquarium temperature will be closest to that of the pond. After matching the temperatures, float the aquarium fish in a plastic bag with plenty of aquarium water for a few hours when you first place them into the pond. This extra step will help the fish adapt to any remaining temperature discrepancies.

Are you ready to add a few new fish to your pond? Shop our full selection of koi and goldfish.